How To Do Herringbone Stitch Embroidery

So you want to learn herringbone stitch embroidery?

It might look complicated at first glance, but I promise it's totally doable - even if you're just getting started with needlework.

Herringbone is one of those stitches that looks way more intricate than it really is. Those zig zag lines that look like they are woven together, happen with a simple back and forth motion of your needle.

Whether you're hoping to add some decoration to your clothes, jazz up a plain pillow, or just want to try something new, herringbone stitch is going to fit the bill.

I'll walk you through everything - from picking the right fabric to working interesting variations, step by super-easy step.

Ready to learn something that'll seriously upgrade your embroidery skills? Let's get started. But first... a bit of history (you can skip past this section if you wish).

The Origins of the Herringbone Stitch

Ever wonder why we call it "herringbone" stitch?

The name comes from its striking resemblance to the skeleton of a herring fish. (Although, it's worth noting that whoever came up with the name might not have been an expert on fish anatomy!) 

You might also know it as the plaited stitch or catch stitch.

This stitch has been around for centuries, with roots tracing back to traditional textile work across different cultures. Weavers and embroiderers discovered that by creating these angled, overlapping lines, they could create a strong, decorative pattern that was both functional and beautiful.

Tailors loved it because the stitch created a sturdy, flexible seam that could withstand a lot of wear and tear.

Indigenous cultures in South America and parts of Asia also developed similar diagonal weaving techniques that look strikingly similar to what we now call herringbone.

Today, you'll see herringbone patterns everywhere - from high-end fashion to home decor, from traditional embroidery to modern graphic design. It's pretty amazing how a simple stitch inspired by a fish skeleton has become such a timeless pattern.

 

A Type of Crossed Stitch

Herringbone stitch is part of the surface embroidery stitch family, specifically falling under the category of crossed stitches. However, it can also be worked by counting the fabric threads.

It creates diagonal, interlocking lines that cross over each other, forming a zigzag-like pattern. In embroidery, it's typically worked from left to right (or right to left if you’re left handed) with diagonal stitches that alternate and interlock, creating that distinctive angled look.

What makes herringbone great is its flexibility - you can use it for outlines, create solid fills, or play around with spacing and thread colours to get totally different effects.

If you’re an embroiderer looking to expand your stitch repertoire, herringbone is a great one to add to your toolkit. It's not super complicated once you get the hang of the basic rhythm, and it can add some serious visual interest to your needlework projects.

Check this page for more information on the different categories or types of stitches.

How to do herringbone stitch

Before we explore its many variations, let's learn how to create the basic straight row of the herringbone stitch.

To make it easier to demonstrate, I used 28-count evenweave fabric for my first example. If you're practicing on non-evenweave fabrics, you may find it helpful to draw two parallel lines to mark the top and bottom of your row.

Work this stitch from left to right along your row.

Working In A Hoop

For this demonstration, I used DMC Perle cotton number 5 and an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric flat and taut.

NOTE: Please keep in mind that the number of fabric threads you work over may vary from mine. I intentionally made my stitches larger so that you can easily see them in this demonstration.

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The Finished Basic Herringbone Stitch

The photograph shows a completed row of herringbone stitch.

Working In The Hand

You may find easier to work this stitch without a hoop. Just keep an eye on your thread tension because if you pull too tight, it will cause the fabric to pucker.

For this sample, I used a thread from my stash that's equivalent to a Perle 8 cotton. I paired it with a crewel needle and some white 300 thread count embroidery fabric.

I've made the photos a bit bigger so you can see what's going on. 

The good news is, you don't have to count individual threads like we did last time, so you can just focus on getting the stitch right. You might like to draw two horizontal pencil lines as a guide, to keep the top and bottom of your row straight.

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Closed herringbone stitch

So far we've been leaving little gaps between our short stitches. What if we try closing those gaps up? If we bring the needle back up right next to where the last stitch went down, we're basically creating two rows of backstitch. This method actually has a name - closed herringbone stitch.

It emphasises the plaited effect on the front of the work but there is another surprise waiting for you.

If you work on the back of a fine, almost see-through fabric, when you turn to the right side you will see a pale shadow of the longer stitches from the front. Perhaps not surprisingly, this also has a name - Shadow Work.

Tied And Laced Herringbone

One way to add some flair to your embroidery is by decorating a single row of herringbone stitches with a different colour or weight of thread. It's actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

In the photo below I used embroidery floss for both stages of the stitch. But to be honest I think a twisted thread such as a pearl cotton is a better choice. It has a nicer roundness to it whereas the floss can separate and lay a little flatter which is not so attractive.  

First complete a normal row of stitches in your first colour.

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Repeat for the next long stitch but this time point the needle towards the bottom of the row. Alternate the needle direction, each time just slipping behind the long stitches as you work along the row.

Double Herringbone Stitch

Have you tried working one row of stitches over the top of another, but offsetting the stitches? Worked in different colours this gives an interesting layered effect.

In the photo I have used this to embellish a seam on a crazy quilt block. I added further stitches to create mini flowers on either side of the seam. The possibilities are endless, so don't be afraid to get creative!

Triple herringbone

If you enjoy the double herringbone, the triple herringbone is a great way to add extra texture and interest to your embroidery. I used three dusky shades of Valdani Pearl Cotton size 12 for the sample below, stitched on a piece of damask that I hand dyed with flower petals.

Row 1:

Work normal herringbone stitch, spaced apart. Focus on keeping the stitches even in size, with enough room between them for two more layered rows.

Row 2:

Thread up with your second colour and work the next row of stitches between those of row 1. Space your stitches apart for a loose effect or work them close together for a denser border.

This is how my stitching looked at this stage. 

Row 3

Finally, complete your triple herringbone, by using your third colour to work one more layer in the gaps that remain.

Tips and Variations

• Experiment with texture: Try using threads with different finishes—like metallics, silks, or matte cottons—to give each layer a unique look.
• Play with colour: For a more subtle effect, choose threads in a monochromatic palette. For bold contrast, select colours that are widely different.
• Try Different Thread Weights: Heavier threads will give a bolder line, while finer threads add delicate detail.

Combining herringbone with other stitches

You can add a special touch to your work by combining stitches. So let's see what we could add to the basic foundation of herringbone stitch.

It could be something as simple as adding three straight stitches above or below the horizontal stitches. Or swap these out for tiny detached chain stitches (also known as lazy daisy).

Worked in green, either of the above options could represent leaves, to which you could add colourful french knots, either singly or in groups, as floral decorations.

Maybe my examples below will spark your creativity?

Each time you add a new herringbone embellishment or stitch variation, take a photograph to document your progress.

These snapshots can inspire future projects and over time build a visual library of ideas to dip into.