Learn How to Cross Stitch

What is cross stitch?

Cross stitch is a form of counted thread embroidery. You work small X-shaped stitches onto an evenly woven fabric, following a chart that tells you which colour goes in each square. Because the fabric has the same number of threads in every direction, your stitches come out neat and even with no drawing or tracing needed.

It is called counted cross stitch because you count squares out from the centre of your chart, rather than stitching over a design printed on the fabric. That counting is really the whole skill, and it is far easier than it sounds.

What you need to start

You need very little to begin, and a beginner's kit will usually include all of it. Here's the short list:

How to make a cross stitch

Every cross stitch is two diagonal stitches that cross to make an X. On Aida, each "square" is a neat block with a hole at every corner, so you always know exactly where the needle goes.

Cross stitch in action. Watch first, then follow the steps below.

Where to start on your fabric

Always begin in the centre. Starting in the middle makes sure your design sits centrally with an even border all round. Most charts mark the centre with little arrows along the edges. Find where they meet, then fold your fabric in half and in half again to find the centre of the cloth. Match the two, and that's your starting point.

On 14-count Aida, work with 2 strands of cotton. Here's an easy way to separate the strands from the six-stranded skein.

How to follow a cross stitch chart

A cross stitch chart is simply a grid. Each square holds a symbol, and the key tells you which thread colour that symbol means. The numbers in the key are the manufacturer's colour numbers, so for example the symbol below stands for DMC 444, a bright yellow, and you can match the exact shade.

The chart

A symbol in every square shows where each stitch goes.

The key

Matches each symbol to its thread colour and number.

Rather than working line by line, it's far easier to stitch one block of colour at a time. It means fewer stops and starts and a much tidier back.

Let's follow part of this little owl. Find the symbol nearest the centre; on this chart that's the top-left of the owl's beak. It carries the number 2, which the key tells us is yellow, DMC 444. Work two cross stitches for the top row of the beak, then carry on down, using up the thread in your needle as you go.

Look closely and you'll spot a lone yellow stitch on the other side of the flower stem. I'd work that at the same time as the row of crosses: just miss one hole and place the last yellow stitch where it needs to be, carrying the thread neatly across the back.

Changing colours

Once your first block is finished, choose the next symbol and work a block of that colour in the same way. Finish each thread by running it under a few stitches on the back, then bring the new colour up where you need it. Block by block, the colours join together into your design.

Outlining with backstitch

The finishing touch on many designs is a backstitch outline: a single line of stitches that sharpens the edges and adds detail. Not every design has it, but when it does, it really makes the picture pop.

Here's where I cheat a little. Rather than saving all the backstitch until the very end, I work it little and often as I go through a project, so it never becomes a chore.

Starting and finishing your thread

You don't need knots in cross stitch, and you're better off without them. To start, leave a short tail at the back and catch it under your first few stitches as you work. To finish, run the needle under three or four stitches on the back, then snip the thread off close.

A knot-free back lies nice and flat, which matters if you're going to frame your work or make it into a card or bookmark. When your piece is done, there are lots of cross stitch finishing ideas to choose from.

Your first project

The best way to learn is to stitch something small and quick. My little owl comes from a set of 14 mini bird charts, all simple cross stitch and backstitch, ideal for a first project.

You'll also find a selection of free beginner cross stitch patterns on the site to practise on. Pick a small one, work it block by block, and you'll have your first finished piece sooner than you think.