Choosing embroidery fabric
for counted thread projects

As a beginner to counted thread work the sheer number of suitable embroidery fabrics available totally confused me.

I loved the traditional look of linen but the lady in the craft shop recommended Aida instead.

I was tempted to skip the beginner fabric as to my eyes it looked ugly but when she went on to explain that learning the technique without worrying about potential tension issues could save me money and frustration I accepted her wisdom.

That advice saved me from the frustration I later saw other stitchers experience - including one of my own early attempts on linen that ended up as a parallelogram instead of a rectangle!

Understanding Fabric Count and Sizing

🎥 Prefer video? Watch this quick Embroidery Fabric Count Explained tutorial to see fabric differences in action!

You can follow along by clicking the transcript button, below.

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Before selecting a fabric, you need to understand fabric count—the number of threads per inch. This directly affects how large or small your finished stitches will appear.

When you buy a pattern it will usually tell you which fabric size the designer used, but you don't have to stick to this. However, if you change to a different count you will need to work out how that will affect the amount of fabric you'll need. 

✅ Try This! Use our Cross-Stitch Size Calculator to instantly determine the ideal fabric count for your project.

Calculating the Amount of Fabric to Buy

If you are going to frame your finished stitching you will need to consider any unstitched area around the design. If you do not leave enough, the end result can seem cramped and squashed into the frame. A larger design will often look better with more empty space.  

Let's look at an example: If you have a design size of 5" x 7" and you want a clear 2 inch mounting margin (1 inch on each side), plus another 3 inch framing allowance then you would want to cut the fabric to 10" x 12".

Also keep in mind that evenweave and linen can fray around the edges. 

You have various options for edge protection:

✔ Machine stitch around the outside (this is what I recommend).

✔ Apply fray check solution.

✔ Tape the edges.

I find the last one requires extra fabric and I can't bear the sticky residue that often remains and would want to cut this off once the work is completed. I also find it make the edges stiff and uncomfortable to hold while stitching, but that might just be me.

Which Needle Size Should You Use?

Choosing the right needle size is crucial for achieving smooth stitches, preventing fabric damage, and ensuring a comfortable stitching experience.

📌 Needle Selection Tips:

🔗 Related Guide: Not sure which embroidery needles to use? Read this in-depth guide!

Starting With Aida Fabric

When I first started counted thread embroidery, I was tempted to skip Aida fabric because I preferred the look of linen.

However, Aida's firm, block-weave structure makes it the perfect learning fabric. Its stiff texture holds its shape well, even without a hoop, and the clearly defined holes make counting simple and accurate.

Understanding Aida

Most beginners start with 14 count Aida (14 holes per inch) and use 2 (or sometimes 3) strands of embroidery floss for cross stitch. This gives a good coverage 

The firmness of the weave will mean it is easy to keep the right tension.

The tapestry needle will help you to go through the holes and not pierce the bunched together fabric threads. 

However, at some point you may decide you want to use fractional cross stitches to add a smoother shape to your blocks of colour. As it can be tricky to pierce the exact centre of the solid blocks to create quarter and three quarter stitches this is the point when you might feel it's time to move to evenweave fabrics. 

🔗 Related Guide: Learn more about fractional stitches in our full guide.

🛒 Looking for Aida in different colors? Check out Aida fabric options here.

Moving to Evenweave Fabric

When I first switched from Aida to evenweave, I was delighted by its more refined appearance.

While it still offers the consistent spacing that helps with accurate counting, it creates a much smoother background for your stitching. I found it to be the perfect stepping stone before tackling pure linen.

I typically work with 25 (Lugana) or 28 (Jobelan) holes per inch evenweaves.

I found it required a new counting technique, as it involves stitching over 2 fabric threads, meaning I had to retrain my eye!

However, I picked this up quite quickly and soon realised that 28 divided by 2 = 14, meaning the end result was the same size as the Aida I had been using previously. 

My biggest adjustment was the lack of big holes and learning to bring the needle up between the fabric threads without piercing them. Regular checking helps ensure my stitches aren't going over one or three threads instead of two

Evenweaves tend to be softer to handle than the stiff Aida and come in a range of colours. I always use a hoop to keep the fabric threads straight and taut. 

Graduating to Linen Fabric

Linen is often considered the gold standard for counted thread embroidery, and with good reason.

I love how its organic appearance, with its slightly uneven threads and natural slubs, creates a beautiful background for stitching. However, these same characteristics that make it appealing can also make it challenging to work with.

If my budget permits, I find pure linen is the best fabric to embroider on. Linen is a durable, single thread hand embroidery fabric woven from 100% flax.

Because of the fibre, fabrics made from linen can have bumps or "slubs" which make them more tricky to work on. Also loosely woven linens mean that any embroidery floss carried across the back of the work is visible from the front. This loose weave also means linen requires careful tension control.

Linen embroidery fabrics come in a variety of thread counts and mostly natural colour choices. 

Some well-known linens are:

• Glenshee - 19 count
• Dublin - 25 count
• Cashel linen - 28 count
• Belfast linen - 32 count
• Edinburgh - 36 count

🔗 Related Guide: "New to evenweave? Learn how to stitch on evenweave & linen.

Hardanger Fabric: The Specialty Weave

Hardanger fabric (also called Oslo) is a 22-count even-weave cotton where threads lay in pairs instead of a single grid.

It is commonly used for Hardanger embroidery, a Norwegian technique involving cutwork, open spaces, and decorative stitches.

📌 Best For: Hardanger embroidery, drawn-thread work, openwork techniques
📌 Not Ideal For: Cross-stitchers who need a clear block weave like Aida

🔗 Related Guide: New to Hardanger embroidery? Learn how to stitch Hardanger techniques.

Waste Canvas: Stitch on Any Fabric!

What is waste canvas?

Waste Canvas is a temporary, removable embroidery fabric that allows you to stitch a counted thread design onto any non-evenweave fabric, such as clothing, tote bags, or home décor fabrics.

It has a similar grid structure to Aida but is made from a stiffer, water-soluble or pull-thread material that can be removed after stitching.

📌 Best For: Stitching on garments, tote bags, denim, felt, and other non-evenweave fabrics
📌 Not Ideal For: Traditional cross-stitch projects where the fabric is the background

🔗 Related Guide: New to Waste Canvas? Follow this step-by-step tutorial!

Your Fabric Journey

When I look back at my early counted thread pieces, I can see how each fabric type taught me something valuable.

Aida gave me confidence in my basic technique, evenweave helped me develop precision in counting and placement, and linen taught me to work with, not against, the natural characteristics of the fabric.

Don't rush to move from one fabric to the next. Each stage builds skills that will serve you well as you progress. Remember, it's not about achieving perfection - it's about creating beautiful pieces you can be proud of, regardless of which fabric you choose.